Udayagiri and Khandagiri Caves: 2026 Guide & History

The first time I stood atop the Udayagiri hill at dawn, the world felt incredibly still. As the first rays of the sun hit the honey-colored sandstone of the Rani Gumpha, the ancient carvings seemed to wake up, telling stories of a forgotten empire. There’s something deeply humbling about touching stones that were chiseled over two thousand years ago—you can almost feel the rhythmic vibration of the ancient hammers and the whispers of the monks who once called these hills their home. If you’re planning a trip to Bhubaneswar in 2026, the Udayagiri and Khandagiri caves aren’t just a tourist spot—they’re a portal into the heart of the Kalinga kingdom.

Located just on the western edge of Bhubaneswar, these twin hills—Udayagiri (Sunrise Hill) and Khandagiri (Broken Hill)—host a complex of 33 rock-cut caves. While Udayagiri offers the most elaborate carvings and the famous Hathi Gumpha inscription, Khandagiri rewards you with spiritual vibes and a breathtaking view of the Temple City’s skyline. The scent of rain-washed sandstone and the distant sound of temple bells create an atmosphere that is uniquely Odishan.

In this guide, I’ll share everything you need to know about visiting these marvels, from the epic history of King Kharavela to the practical tips that will save you from the mischievous monkeys that call these hills home.

Udayagiri and khandagiri caves

A Journey Through Time: Understanding Udayagiri and Khandagiri

When you walk into the ASI-protected complex of Udayagiri, the first thing you notice is the sheer scale of the rock-cut architecture. Unlike the later temples of Bhubaneswar that were built with blocks of stone, these caves were carved directly into the living rock. It’s an architectural feat that always leaves me wondering about the dedication of the craftsmen who worked under the patronage of King Kharavela.

The caves were primarily built as residential retreats for Jain monks. Imagine these halls, now echoing with the chatter of tourists, once being filled with the silent prayers and meditation of ascetics. The layout is simple yet functional—sleeping cells, small courtyards, and communal spaces, all designed to blend seamlessly with the natural contours of the hills.

The architecture here is characterized by its austerity. Unlike the later, more ornate temples like the Konark Sun Temple, the caves of Udayagiri focus on the utility of space for spiritual practice. Yet, the doorways and friezes show a level of artistic sophistication that was far ahead of its time.

Overview of Udayagiri and Khandagiri Caves

Exploring these hills is one of the best things to do in Bhubaneswar because it offers a perfect mix of history, art, and nature.

Jainism in Odisha: A Deep Spiritual Legacy

To truly understand why these caves exist, we must look at the history of Jainism in the region. Long before Buddhism took root in Odisha following the Kalinga War, Jainism was the dominant faith of the land. According to Jain tradition, the first Tirthankara, Lord Rishabhanatha, was deeply connected to Kalinga.

The Mystery of the Kalinga Jina

One of the most poignant stories in Odishan history is that of the ‘Kalinga Jina’. This was a sacred idol of a Jain Tirthankara (likely Rishabhanatha) that was considered the protective deity of the Kalinga kingdom. In the 4th century BCE, the Nanda King Mahapadma Nanda invaded Kalinga and took the idol away to his capital, Pataliputra, as a sign of absolute victory.

For over 300 years, the Kalingans lived with this sense of spiritual loss. When King Kharavela rose to power, his primary mission was not just territorial expansion, but the restoration of Kalinga’s spiritual pride. When he finally defeated the Magadhan king and brought the Kalinga Jina back in his 12th regnal year, it wasn’t just a religious victory; it was a national restoration. The Hathi Gumpha inscription records this event with great fervor, showing how deeply the people of Kalinga felt about their faith.

Influence on Odia Culture

Jainism didn’t just leave behind stone caves; it shaped the very soul of Odisha. Many scholars believe that the concept of ‘Kaivalya’ (liberation) and the vegetarian traditions of the region have deep Jain roots. Even the worship of Lord Jagannath is thought by some to have early Jain influences, particularly in the concept of the ‘Triratna’. When you walk through the silent corridors of Udayagiri, you are walking through the birthplace of these enduring cultural values.

History of Udayagiri and Khandagiri Caves: The Rise of Kharavela

The history here is dominated by the figure of Mahameghavahana Kharavela. He was a visionary who restored the glory of Kalinga after the devastating war with Ashoka centuries earlier.

King Kharavela: The Architect of Kalinga’s Glory

King Kharavela, also known as King Kharavela, ruled during the 1st or 2nd century BCE. While Kalinga had been crushed by the Mauryan Emperor Ashoka in 261 BCE, Kharavela represented the resurgence of the local power. He was a staunch follower of Jainism, but his inscriptions show him as a pluralistic ruler who respected all faiths, often calling himself “Sava-pasanda-pujako” (worshipper of all religious sects). This spirit of tolerance is something that still defines the people of Odisha today.

The Hathi Gumpha Inscription: A Year-by-Year Ledger

If you visit Udayagiri, you cannot miss Cave 14, the Hathi Gumpha or Elephant Cave. It contains a 17-line inscription in Brahmi script and Prakrit language.

Hathi Gumpha Inscription at Udayagiri

Here’s a deeper dive into his timeline:

• Year 1: He repaired the gates and ramparts of Kalinga Nagari. This shows his immediate focus on national security and infrastructure.
• Year 2: He sent a massive army westward, reaching the Krishna River. This was a direct challenge to the Satavahana power.
• Year 5: He brought back a canal to his capital that had been excavated by a Nanda king 300 years earlier. It shows he cared deeply about irrigation and public welfare.
• Year 8: He marched into Magadha and reached the Barabar Hills, forcing an Indo-Greek king to retreat. This was a rare instance of an Indian king successfully repelling a foreign invader.
• Year 12: The homecoming of the Kalinga Jina! This event marked the peak of his reign.
• Year 13: He retired to focus on religious works on Kumari Parvata (Udayagiri), building these very caves for the monks.

For more on the glorious past of this region, you should read about the History of Odisha.

Detailed Directory: The 18 Caves of Udayagiri

The Udayagiri hill contains 18 caves, and each has its own historical and architectural significance. Here is a detailed look at each one of them.

1. Rani Gumpha (Queen’s Cave)

Rani Gumpha is the jewel of Udayagiri. As the largest cave in the complex, this double-storied monastery features an open courtyard surrounded by wings of cells. The carvings here are the most elaborate, depicting royal processions, forest scenes, and dramatic duels. The upper storey friezes are particularly famous for their vividness. I’ve always felt that Rani Gumpha feels more like a palace than a monastery, reflecting the royal patronage of the era. The way the acoustic properties work in the central courtyard suggests it might have also been used for religious chants or even courtly performances.

2. Bajaghara Gumpha

A stark contrast to the Rani Gumpha, Bajaghara is simple and functional. It contains a rock-cut bed and a pillow, giving us a glimpse into the austere lifestyle of the Jain monks. These beds were not for comfort; they were designed to keep the monks slightly elevated from the damp ground during the monsoon. It serves as a reminder that these magnificent structures were, at their core, places of extreme penance and meditation.

3. Chota Hathi Gumpha (Small Elephant Cave)

Don’t let the name fool you; while the cave is small, it is famous for the six small elephants carved at its entrance. These elephants are beautifully rendered, showing the ancient sculptors’ deep understanding of animal anatomy and grace. The elephants are often seen as symbols of the eight directions or ‘Dikpalas’ in ancient Indian cosmology.

4. Alakapuri Gumpha

This double-storied cave is unique for its pillars that feature winged human figures—a motif that suggests global cultural influences, possibly from the Hellenistic or Persian worlds, even two thousand years ago. The relief sculpture of a lion holding its prey is another striking feature that displays the fierce artistic style of ancient Kalinga, emphasizing power and protection.

5. Jaya Vijaya Gumpha

Another double-storied beauty, Jaya Vijaya is known for a specific carving of a female figure adorned with heavy earrings and decorated hair. The presence of a parrot on her hand adds a touch of secular beauty to the spiritual surroundings. It’s a peaceful spot that often stays quiet even when the main caves are crowded. The symmetry of the two stories reflects a well-planned architectural vision.

6. Panasa Gumpha

Panasa Gumpha is a very small and simple cave. It lacks the elaborate carvings of its neighbors, likely serving as a basic cell for a monk who preferred complete isolation and simplicity. The name ‘Panasa’ refers to the jackfruit tree, which might have grown nearby in abundance.

7. Thakurani Gumpha

While small, Thakurani Gumpha features tiny relief sculptures that are worth a closer look. The name ‘Thakurani’ suggests a connection to local goddess traditions that might have been integrated over time as the site evolved. It shows the fluid nature of religious sites in Odisha where different traditions often co-existed.

8. Patalapuri Gumpha

This is a slightly larger cave with a pillared verandah. The space is wider, suggesting it might have been used as a communal gathering spot for monks during the rainy season. The architecture here is sturdy and reflects a focus on durability, with thick stone walls that keep the interior remarkably cool.

9. Mancapuri and Swargapuri Gumpha

These are technically two caves (one above the other). They are historically crucial because they contain inscriptions from Kharavela’s family, including his chief queen and his successor, Kudepasiri. One carving depicts a group of people worshipping a Jain symbol, which is thought by many to be the most accurate representation of the Kalinga Jina itself.

10. Ganesha Gumpha

Named after a carved figure of Ganesha (added much later in the 8th or 9th century), this cave is famous for its reliefs depicting the romantic and dramatic story of the abduction of Princess Vasavadatta by King Udayana.

Elephant Statues at Ganesha Gumpha

The two massive stone elephants at the entrance carrying garlands are iconic and are a favorite for photography enthusiasts.

11. Jambesvara Gumpha

This is a single-cell cave with two entrances. It is a quiet spot, often overlooked, but it offers a sense of the solitary life the monks led. The inscription here identifies the donor as Nakiya, a woman from the town of Bharadi, showing that women were also active patrons of Jainism.

12. Vyaghra Gumpha (Tiger Cave)

This is the most photographed cave in Udayagiri. The entire entrance is carved to look like the open mouth of a tiger, with the single cell forming the tiger’s throat. It is a brilliant example of zoomorphic architecture, turning a simple cave into a lasting artistic landmark. The inscription here mentions it was built by the judge (Sabhyada) named Bhuti.

13. Sarpa Gumpha (Snake Cave)

Similar to the Vyaghra Gumpha but smaller, this cave features a three-hooded snake carved above the entrance. It reflects the ancient Kalingan reverence for ‘Nagas’ (serpents), a theme that continues in the widespread Naga worship in Odisha to this day.

14. Hathi Gumpha (Elephant Cave)

This is a large natural cavern and the historical heart of the site. The 17-line Hathi Gumpha inscription is located here. The cave is spacious and has a natural, rugged feel, standing in contrast to the more finished rock-cut rooms nearby. It is here that you feel the true weight of Kalinga’s history.

15. Dhanaghara Gumpha

This cave features a verandah supported by two sturdy pillars. It is a well-planned cell that shows the evolution of architectural skill, focusing on providing a bit more space and light for the residents. The name suggests it might have been used for storing offerings or grains.

16. Haridasa Gumpha

Named after an ascetic named Haridasa who reportedly lived here in later centuries, this cave is a simple cell. It shows how the hills continued to be used as a spiritual retreat long after the Kalinga empire had faded, maintaining its sanctity through the ages.

17. Jagannatha Gumpha

A roughly cut cave with three entrances, it was once famous for a painting of Lord Jagannath. Although the painting has faded away with time, the name remains, linking the ancient Jain heritage to the modern Jagannath culture of Odisha. It’s a fascinating example of the continuity of religious sites.

18. Rasui Gumpha

Unusually small, this cave is locally known as the ‘Kitchen Cave’. It is believed that this space was used for preparing simple meals for the community of monks, showing the practical, everyday side of monastic life.

Detailed Directory: The 15 Caves of Khandagiri

Across the road, the Khandagiri hill offers 15 caves that are more focused on the later medieval period and the continued legacy of Jainism.

1. Tatowa Gumpha No. 1

Named after the parrots (Tatwa) carved above its entrance arches, this cave features two beautiful dwarapalas. The sculptural friezes here are vivid, showing musicians and dancers that celebrate the joy of life. It’s a great example of the ‘Kalingan’ style of stone carving.

2. Tatowa Gumpha No. 2

A companion to the first, this cave is more spacious. It features a vaulted roof and intricate carvings of animals and birds. The architecture here shows a move towards more complex structural designs, with pillars that are more slender than those in Udayagiri.

3. Ananta Gumpha

Considered the most impressive cave on Khandagiri, Ananta Gumpha features celestial carvings. The image of Gaja-Lakshmi being bathed by elephants and the chariot of the Sun God are absolute highlights. The two serpents on the door arches give it its name (Ananta). The ceiling also has carvings of the moon and stars.

4. Tentuli Gumpha

This is a small rock-cut chamber with a single central column. It is a simple, austere space that provides a sense of the focused meditation that took place on these hills. The name ‘Tentuli’ comes from the tamarind tree.

5. Khandagiri Gumpha

A two-story cave with a rough-cut entrance, it is the eponymous cave of the hill. It provides some of the best interior views of how the rock was gradually chipped away to create living spaces. It feels very raw and ancient.

6. Dhyana Gumpha

As the name ‘Dhyana’ (Meditation) suggests, this cave was designed for silence. It is tucked away from the main path, offering a quiet sanctuary for those looking to escape the wind and noise. It’s a place where you can still feel the stillness of the past.

7. Navamuni Gumpha

This is a major religious site on Khandagiri. It features carvings of the nine Tirthankaras and their Sasanadevis. These were added during the 11th-century Somavamshi reign, showing the site’s enduring spiritual importance through different dynasties.

8. Barabhuji Gumpha

This cave is a gallery of Jain iconography. It contains images of 25 Tirthankaras and is named after the two twelve-armed goddesses (Barabhuji) carved on its walls. The atmosphere here is thick with devotion and the smell of ancient stone.

9. Trusula Gumpha

This cave features carvings of the ‘Trishula’ or trident symbol. While commonly associated with Shaivism, the symbol has ancient Jain roots as well, representing the three jewels (Triratna) of Jainism—Right Faith, Right Knowledge, and Right Conduct.

10. Ambika Gumpha

Named after the Jain Yakshini Ambika, this cave is a beautiful example of how female deities were integrated into the spiritual landscape of the hills. Ambika is often seen with a child and a mango tree, symbols of fertility and prosperity.

11. Lalatendu Keshari Gumpha

This cave features reliefs of Mahavira and Parsvanatha. It is historically linked to the Somavamshi King Lalatendu Keshari and represents the final major phase of royal patronage at the site, cementing its status as a premier Jain destination.

12, 13, 15. The Unnamed Cells

These are smaller, basic cells located further up the hill. While they lack the grand carvings, they offer a sense of the vastness of the monastic community that once lived here. They are perfect for sitting in quiet contemplation.

14. Ekadasi Gumpha

A basic cell that shows the simple, raw nature of early rock-cut work. It is a quiet spot that offers a great view of the valley below, reminding us that the monks often chose locations for their beauty as well as their isolation.

Architectural Comparison: Kalinga vs. The Western Ghats

As a traveler who has seen both the caves of Odisha and the famous caves of Maharashtra (like Ajanta, Ellora, and Karla), I often find myself comparing the two styles. While both are rock-cut, they are worlds apart in terms of intent and aesthetics.

Feature	Kalinga Caves (Udayagiri)	Western Ghat Caves (Ajanta/Ellora)
Material	Coarse, porous sandstone	Hard, volcanic basalt
Scale	Small, intimate residential cells	Massive congregational halls (Chaityas)
Focus	Utilitarian living spaces for monks	Grand artistic and religious monuments
Religious Focus	Primarily Jain (Early)	Primarily Buddhist and Hindu
Ceiling Height	Low (3-5 feet)	Very high (20-40 feet)

The Kalinga caves are much older than the peak of Ajanta and Ellora. They represent the “primitive” but incredibly skilled beginnings of Indian rock-cut architecture. The focus here was on ‘Tapashya’ (austerity), which is why the ceilings are so low—they were designed for sitting or lying down, not for standing or grand ceremonies.

Khandagiri Mela 2026: The Magha Saptami Celebrations

If you visit in early 2026, you’ll witness the Khandagiri Mela, a tradition that has survived for centuries.

Khandagiri Mela Celebration

Khandagiri Mela 2026 Dates: January 25 to February 7, 2026.

The Mela is centered around Magha Saptami, the seventh day of the month of Magha. It is believed that the Sun God first appeared on this day. The hills are lit up, and thousands of pilgrims climb the steps to offer prayers. The gathering of ‘Sadhus’ from across India makes this a truly mystical experience. The air is filled with the chanting of mantras and the rhythmic beating of drums.

Local Delicacies to Try

• Gulgula: Deep-fried sweet wheat balls.
• Piaji: Crispy onion fritters that go perfectly with the winter evening air.
• Chhena Poda: The legendary Odia burnt cheesecake.
• Dahibara Aloo Dum: The unofficial national dish of Bhubaneswar!

The Mela is a great place to experience Odisha Festivals in their most vibrant form. You can also explore the Khandagiri Mela guide for detailed information.

Flora and Fauna of the Twin Hills

Beyond the history, the twin hills are an ecological island in the middle of a growing city.

• The Trees: You’ll see massive Peepal and Banyan trees that have grown into the rock fissures. These are sacred to both Jains and Hindus. There are also many Tamarind (Tentuli) and Jackfruit (Panasa) trees, which give some of the caves their names.
• The Animals: Besides the famous (and mischievous) monkeys, you might see peacocks early in the morning. The hills are also home to a variety of reptiles and birds, making it a mini-biodiversity spot.
• The Sandstone Flora: Look for the small ferns and mosses that grow on the sandstone surfaces after the rain—they give the ancient caves a beautiful, aged green patina.

Practical Visitor Information for 2026

Timings & Entry Fees

• Timings: 8:00 AM – 5:00 PM (Official ASI hours).
• Entry Fee (Indians): ₹25.
• Entry Fee (Foreigners): ₹300.
• Children (below 15): Free entry.

How to Reach

• Mo Bus: Routes 10 and 11 are very convenient.
• Cab: Use Uber or Ola for a 15-minute ride from the airport.
• Auto-Rickshaw: Agree on a fare (around ₹200) before you start.

Best Time to Visit

The winter months (October to March) are ideal. The morning air is crisp, and the sun isn’t too harsh for the climb.

Sustainable Tourism: Preserving the Past

As a visitor in 2026, you have a responsibility to help preserve these ancient treasures. The sandstone is fragile, and the increased footfall can cause irreparable damage.

1. Don’t Touch the Carvings: The oils from human hands can accelerate the decay of the porous sandstone.
2. Use Trash Cans: Always dispose of your plastic and food waste in the designated bins to avoid attracting more monkeys and polluting the site.
3. Stay on the Paths: Avoid climbing on the unprotected roofs of the caves as they can be structurally weak.
4. Silence is Golden: Respect the sanctity of the site. Keep your voice low, especially in the areas where you might find people meditating.

The Future of the Twin Hills

Bhubaneswar is growing rapidly, and the twin hills are becoming more integrated into the urban fabric. There are plans to develop a modern interpretation center nearby and enhance the light and sound show that takes place in the evenings. These developments aim to make the history of Kharavela even more accessible to the younger generation. As the city modernizes, the Udayagiri and Khandagiri caves remain its grounding anchor, reminding us of where we came from.

Insider Tips for a Perfect Visit

The Monkey Menace

The monkeys at Khandagiri are professional snatchers. Keep your bags zipped, your glasses secure, and never—ever—show them a plastic bag or a water bottle. If they approach you, walk away calmly; don’t run.

Photography Lighting and Gear

• Gear: Bring a wide-angle lens for the cave interiors and a telephoto lens if you want to capture the Bhubaneswar skyline or the peacocks.
• Lighting: Udayagiri is best in the morning (8 AM - 10 AM). For Khandagiri, the late afternoon (4 PM - 5 PM) is better for the sunset glow.

Nearby Secret: Jayadev Vatika

Just across the road is Jayadev Vatika, a 100-acre botanical park. It’s much quieter than the caves and perfect for a picnic or a peaceful walk if the crowds at the caves become too much.

A Perfect Half-Day Itinerary for 2026

• 08:00 AM: Start at Udayagiri (Rani Gumpha).
• 09:30 AM: Visit Hathi Gumpha and read the inscription.
• 10:15 AM: Cross over to Khandagiri.
• 10:45 AM: Climb to the top Jain temple for the view.
• 11:30 AM: Visit Ananta Gumpha.
• 12:15 PM: Enjoy hot Dahibara Aloo Dum at the entrance stalls.

Nearby Attractions to Explore

Combine your visit with:

• Iskcon Temple: 4 km away. Guide to ISKCON Bhubaneswar.
• Nandankanan Zoo: 25 mins drive. Nandankanan Guide.
• Lingaraj Temple: 8 km away. Lingaraj Temple Guide.
• Dhauli Giri: 12 km away. Dhauli Guide.

FAQs on Udayagiri and Khandagiri caves

Is there a lot of climbing involved?

Yes, be prepared for about 2-3 km of walking and many stone steps. Wear good sneakers.

Is the site accessible for elderly visitors?

Udayagiri is easier, but Khandagiri is quite steep. Accessibility is limited for those with severe mobility issues.

Can I find a guide easily?

Yes, guides are available at the entrance. Ensure they have an ASI license.

Who was King Kharavela?

He was the greatest ruler of the Mahameghavahana dynasty of Kalinga, known for his military conquests and religious patronage.

What is the literal meaning of ‘Udayagiri’?

It translates to ‘Sunrise Hill’.

Final Thoughts: Why You Must Visit in 2026

The Udayagiri and Khandagiri caves are a testimony to the resilience and artistic spirit of the Odia people. When you stand there, looking at the same horizon that King Kharavela once surveyed, you feel a connection to the past that is hard to find in a textbook.

From the spiritual silence of Ananta Gumpha to the festive chaos of the Khandagiri Mela, these twin hills offer a complete experience of Odisha’s heritage. So, pack your bags, wear your most comfortable walking shoes, and get ready to step back 2,000 years. The history of Kalinga is waiting to be rediscovered by you.

Jai Jagannath!

For more travel inspiration, don’t forget to check out our list of 20 Must-Visit Best Tourist Places in Odisha.